david brown 995

Posted by KROMETOES on 2007-10-31 15:10:00

Thank you all for your wonderful forum discussions!

My name is Tony and I own a David Brown 995 serial #982420 Diesel 2WD 12 speed with a Dual Loader. I bought it last Saturday at an estate sale here in South Dakota. Also bought a small power unit at the same sale, a two cylinder Wisconsin with a gear reduction. I needed something to power my sawmill which is belt drive, not sure whether I will use the tractor or the Wisconsin. The tractor does not have the belt drive attachement so I will keep an eye on Ebay for one.

The 995 is hard starting but once it starts, it runs great with no smoke or loss of power so I have ruled out poor compression as a problem. I bought it realizing that I may have to get into the injection pump and spend some money. The first thing I did was to find this owners group and read up on past posts. Then I bought an IT service manual at the local "Runnings" rancher supply store in Rapid City.

I have looked over the engine and see only one problem - the fuel supply line has a rubber hose over it in what looks to be a prior attempt to fix a leak. That may be the only problem with the hard starting - if it is drawing air that could be the culpret.

The other problem is slow hydraulics. I pulled the dipstick and found that it is low, to the bottom of the dipstick - no white coloration but when I pulled the quick disconnect for the loader there was white coloration there indicating water contamination. The two dust covers on the shift levers were worthless and I went to the local case dealer - they had them on hand for about eight bucks each so I am cleaning the top of the housing off and installing the new ones. I am going to put some grease into them. Comments?

I did not add any hydraulic fluid yet because I am going to drain it completely and change all the filters.

Btw, oil and fuel filters for the 995 can be found at NAPA here in the US. The price is $11.29 for the oil filter (Part #1313) and $7.69 for each fuel filter (Part #3166).

The Hydraulic filter I could only find at the Case dealer and they are pretty proud of it pricewise. I may have to design a re-usable one that I can clean. This tractor is not going to be nor appears to ever have been a shed queen, it is a working tractor. It has a dual loader on the front with a grapple. There are dents on the front of the sheetmetal and the lights are all broken off. I may put some led lights on it from a big rig (truck tractor trailer) or may find some of those URAL motorcycle ones on ebay, they look similar. I'm not anal enough about being right to pay for a set of orginals unless I can find a used set very reasonably! Snow-mobile tail lights may work for the back fenders also, they have the right look.

I am a single father and will probably put a set of ROPS on it for safety, I need to be there for my kids! I will make them myself and attach the front to the loader frame assembly and the back down onto the rear axle housing. I do not have a cab on mine for roll over protection which is a bummer but I doubt a cab would work out with the loader anyway.

I did not go looking for a David Brown tractor, matter of fact I have never seen one before. I think it brought a lower price at the sale because of the problems and also because it is scary for many people not to have something that is green in color around here. What would the neighbors think anyway? Blah, blah, blah.

Anyway, I really like this tractor. It is the perfect size and weight for my use on my acreage. It has brand new rear tires and that three point hitch in the back looks very serious.

One question that I have: I don't have an operation manual yet - can any of you all tell me what the small plastic lever is on the left side of the rear axle housing is or does? Is it a differential lock? Not to be confused with the foot lever on the front of the right side of the differential - I see that is the foot operated differential lock from the IT manual.

Also, how do you engage the parking brake?

My 995 has the PTO Clutch by the way, similar from what I read in the forum posts here to the 996. Maybe a North America thing.

Nice to meet you all.

Tony C.
Posted by: Alchad on 2007-10-31 16:59:00
Tony,

Hi and welcome, interesting post.

I'm not one of the experts who will no doubt try to help you out when they get browsing, but in the meantime, one suggestion for poor starting could be the thermostart. Search the forum and you'll come across a few posts on how to check etc.

Also check out this link (courtesy of Mitch)

http://www.caseih.com/parts/parts.aspx? ... 23&RL=ENNA

It should help you in exploring what's what on the 995 = see if you can find the plastic lever, it might say what it is.

Regards

Alchad

PS Nice place South Dakota, isn't that the place where the "Close Encounters" rock is? Very nearly wiped myself out when visiting it. Stopped to take a photo, turned back onto the road and forgot I was in the States and started driving on the left!
Posted by: RitchieLeslie on 2007-10-31 18:17:00
Hi

You can also get basic spares in the US such the hydraulic filter for www.ytmag.com

$18.21 USD

http://www.ytmag.com/cgi-bin/store/mode ... ASE&md=990

Enjoy your new tractor. I ended up with one in exactly the same way.
Posted by: bam on 2007-10-31 18:42:00
Hi Tony..
From the description you give the black lever may be the lift arm lock. It is used to lock the arms in the fully raised position. (its curved on my 996 and moves in/out while rotating about 90degrees).
The parking brake on the 995/6 is engauged by rotating clockwise when raised, there is a ratchet mechanism that is engauged by rotating.
If it isnt locking the ratchet pin may be siezed, ours freed with copious ammounts of freeing fluid.

When you mention slow hydraulics, if you refer to lift arm speeds there is a knob on the front of the unit which houses the control lever, this governs the lowering speed of the lift arms.

Best of luck and enjoy your DB..
bam
Posted by: mitch on 2007-10-31 20:40:00
HI Tony. The best option for your ROPS is the BAre-CO branded ones which I am sure you can get in US somewhere. The actually mount onto the tractor where the stabilizer bars attach tot he reduction housings. They are slightly curved at base to get around reductions. I have attched link to Bare-Co.

http://www.bare-co.com/files/rop/rop1.htm#casedb

http://www.bare-co.com/files/casedb/dbindx.htm

Bare Co are also good for routine parts too.

A tip on the hand brake is to try and apply some grease to the mechanism. You will see a grease nipple when you lie on your back and look up from underneath hand brake assembly. My 1210 had issues there until i managed to grease her up.

Try these guys for manuals too and the link from Alchad for specific parts.

http://www.manuals.us/index.asp?PageAct ... rodID=6237

This manual is original and well worth while.

On hydraulics try a new filter in transmission case and new oil. You can get the filters on that Bare-Co page, they are expensive though.

http://img232.imageshack.us/my.php?imag ... 529mg2.jpg

Picture of ROPS mounting (sort of)


Cheers

Mitch
Posted by: Ruyle on 2007-10-31 23:45:00
Tony,
If it’s hard starting in cold temperatures, check the pre-heater, or what is known on a DB as the thermostat in the intake manifold. There is an electric coil that when diesel is shot on it actually makes a little fire in the intake manifold. You activate it by turning the key halfway between run and start. Hold it there about ten or fifteen seconds before starting. I have found this system to work very well, even at well below freezing. There were several posts about this a few weeks ago that went into much more detail. For obvious reasons, you don’t want to use either on these tractors unless you unplug the hot wire from the manifold first.

If it’s hard starting in general, I’ll defer to the experts. Mine has been hard starting ever since I re-gasketed the engine several years ago to fix numerous oil leaks. I think I might have the timing off a little. It’s on my list to address.
Posted by: KROMETOES on 2007-11-01 02:51:00
You guys are on the ball!
Alchad: Devils Tower is about sixty miles (eighty - ninety kilometers) West from my house in Wyoming. That is where they shot the move Close Encounters. I would be very surprised if anybody in Wyoming would even notice you driving on the Left side. They are all over the road up there - too many sheep and not enough other diversions. I like the url you linked for Case, thanks!

Ritchie: Thank you for the link to parts, I have bookmarked it.

Bam: Correct on the Lift arm Lock, that is exactly what it is! I was looking for it on the axle housing in the manual and that is why I couldn't find it. Three point hitch works fine, the slow hydraulics are on the DuAl front end loader with the grapple. It is plumbed into the Cessna valve down to the right of the seat. I don't know if it is plumbed properly or if the tractor hydraulics have enough flow for the loader, it is a 300 series DuAl. It is strong, will lift the front of the tractor up a foot or two but it is very slow.

Mitch: Thanks for the link to the ROPS- I fired off an email and will take a look at their quote. I can weld up my own system but it might not look so pretty and I really don't have the time if they have a good one available and easy to get. I will work on that parking brake and the fluid/filter change is on my list for this weekend.

Ruyle: "Thermostat" Thanks for the translation, I completely missed it when I was searching. I was looking for the words "Glow Plug" or "combustion chamber pre heater". I have not been using the ignition switch as there is a start button that was wired in on the side of the dash by the previous owner and they told me at the sale that I did not need to turn the actual switch on! I will mess with that tomorrow and see if it works. Hopefully it will start right up. If not, I can check it with an ohm meter?

You guys are great. Thanks! I will report back as to the results after I play with the ignition switch, parking brake, Lift arm lock, hydraulic fluid/filter and various other items.

Hope to be a part of this for many years to come.
Posted by: Scooby on 2007-11-01 09:59:00
Just to avoid confusion this item is called a THERMOSTART. A THERMOSTAT controls the water temperature inside the engine when it is running.
Posted by: Ruyle on 2007-11-01 14:34:00
THERMOSTART!!!! Now it makes a little more sense to me! For the last twenty years I've wondered why the heck did they call it a themostat. Thanks Scooby.
Posted by: bam on 2007-11-01 16:33:00
hi again..
Regarding using the thermostart.. I needed to install a new ignition as the old one was shot.. the only one I could find had no position on the stitch for the thermostart...
I've wired it into the start signal from the ignition switch, when its cold I move the gear select into gear which disengauges the starter.
I hold the ignition in the start position for 30 seconds. Pop the gear select into neutral and the starter engauges, thermostart stays on until engine fires...
It works a treat....
bam.
Posted by: JimCochrane on 2007-11-01 21:31:00
Remember there`s the cold start screw below the injection pump which retards the injection timing to make starting easier . screw in to put it on and out to put it off . the engine will run rough if its left on. I have 4 995`s and 6 990`s. This screw makes a difference on them all. I`ve toured in South Dakota been to Rapid city etc Dances with Wolves Country. My Cousin has a big dairy farm over the Border from North Dakota in Canada at Boisevain.
try this link for spares and information.
http://www.hrmsales.com/david_brown_tractors.htm
Posted by: John_Allen on 2007-11-02 09:43:00
Bam - the MF 240/565 (etc) use the same ignition switch as Thermostart-assisted DB's. I had the reverse problem - I needed a switch for the 780 which hasn't got the heat position - and the only one I could get was for a MF 240. Mind you, it was a clever idea using the isolator switch (which doesn't work on my 995)!

Tony,

Check the connector block below the fuel tank - it corrodes and causes various problems - like not starting on the key with my 780! - Yes, I bought the switch first as I saw the button on the tractor when I bought it - and thought the switch was faulty. I just bypassed the connector to get the machne working - and have totally rewired it since. Looking forward to doing the 995 now - it's even worse!
Posted by: KROMETOES on 2007-11-03 20:43:00
Ok, here is my update today.
Engine starts better when I use the ignition switch in conjunction with the push button starter switch that was added on. Still a bit slow starting in my opinion but will follow up on the advice about the connector block. I will also follow up on the timing advance/retard scrwe on the bottom of the injection pump later on after I check all wiring connnections.
I changed out the hydraulic fluid - there was only a gallon and a half in the tranny - six liters or so! Bad news: I found a circlip that had broken in half and a piece of brass in the bottom with all the gunk and the only thing that I can figure it out to be is a bearing pad out of the 12 Speed Transmission (#48 or #52 in Figure 108 of my I&T shop manual - page 52). I was not able to get the magnetic filter out of the suction filter - looks like a one piece unit, turning the nut does not release it. So I cleaned everything the best I could, installed the new filter and made a gasket for the top hat. Put it all together and filled it up - hydraulics work much better. The circlip and piece of brass that I found concern me, looks like something that I really need to take care of before the tranny eats itself up.
Went crazy with the grease gun and lubricating everything - parking brakes works great now. Dust covers have been replaced, the Left high/low transmission dust cover does not like to stay on, might have to put some super glue on it?



My first attempt to post pictures follows:

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us



http://www.dbtc.co.uk/index.php?name=PN ... =3991#3991
Posted by: Guest on 2007-11-03 22:09:00
Krometoes. The circlip and brass bit are from one of the central gear cogs in the gearbox. If you don't repair this you are heading for MAJOR trouble, if the rest of these brass bits fall out, as the circlips (one each side of the gear)hold the gear cogs in place, the cog will slide on the shaft and chew up the one in front and the one behind as it will slide to and fro on its shaft.
The gearbox experts will probably be able to tell you more exact detail.
Posted by: Ruyle on 2007-11-05 16:30:00
Tony,

You can buy that gasket, part number K262768, from Case-IH for $11.