Pinion setting tool ...

Posted by thutton on 2009-10-01 14:45:00 

Hi -

Does anyone have the DB8208 pinion setting tool that they want to sell, or have could measure one and supply the dimensions? It seems to be the only tool that is not specified with dimensions in any documentation that I have (including the DB tool manual). I am going to be tearing down the transmission in my 1210 4WD, and want to adjust/correct any differential and final drive needs while I'm at it.

Thanks much,
Tom Hutton
Posted by: DB770.DB880 on 2009-10-03 00:34:00 
Tom; Have you tried Elmer Landman @ (519)363-2663 email address ejlandman@sympatico.ca he may be able to help.
Posted by: DB780 on 2009-10-03 09:03:00 
Unless you have reason to believe this setting is a long way out I would leave well alone. The crownwheel and pinion will have worn together now for some years and changing this may not be a good idea. The other two adjustments (if you have disturb them) can be done easily with a dial gauge and an home made tool.
Posted by: thutton on 2009-10-04 01:43:00 
The reason for the query is that I have to rebuild the transmission, and while I'm tearing everything on the rear of the tractor apart, I was going to check/replace any bearings in the differential assembly.

I have several micrometers with magnetic mounts, so I could measure various things. So you have some pointers for me??

Thanks,
Tom
Posted by: stormin on 2009-10-04 08:15:00 
In the absence of any measurments it could be a good idea to apply engineers blue to the pinion before stripping the diff down. Rotate the gears a few times. Observe and make a note of the pattern produced on the crown wheel gear showing how the two are meshing together.
Changing the pinion bearings will inevitably alter the running height of the pinion. Apply blue again after assembly. You should try and shim the height of the pinion to best replicate the original pattern or get an even spacing of marks on the crown wheel to avoid a noisy diff afterwards.
Obviously not the best way of doing things. But without the proper tool to hand then worth a try.
Posted by: DB780 on 2009-10-04 09:09:00 
That is as good a reason as any. The pinion setting tool measures the distance from the pinion bearing face (the face that butts up to the back of the pinion) to the centre of the diff cage. So if you have measuring tools you can find a suitable reference point where by you can measure from that point to the bearing before you dismantle the gearbox. Bolting a piece of steel across the diff cap bolt holes may be a good reference point. You can then adjust the new bearing to the same measuremnt.
Posted by: john1694 on 2009-10-05 00:35:00 
After many years of DB work, I am with DB780 on this.
Unless you KNOW you have to replace the bearings on the diff - leave them well alone. The chances are very small.
As stated, the crown/pinion ass'y has worked together since it was built - it's rather like telling a husband to change his bed-technique after 30 years of satifying his wife.
Unless you have a HUGE amount of backlash, or blueing the gears shows only tip-contact...DO NOT touch them.
In all the years I have worked on DBs, I have only ever needed to open up the CW/diff assembly once...and that was because a bolt securing the CW to the cage had broken off and been consumed by the differential. The bearings are pretty stout for the work they have to do...
Posted by: thutton on 2009-10-06 01:59:00 
Thanks for the input guys. The problem I have is in the 2nd-3rd synchronizer assembly. When I remove the layshaft and if I need to replace a bearing, since it also has the pinion gear on the end, it could alter the mesh of the pinion / ring gear assembly.

I guess the thing to do is to measure the protrusion distance of the end of the pinion, and make sure that it is the same after the shaft is re-assembled.

Thoughts?

Thanks again,
Tom
Posted by: DB780 on 2009-10-06 07:35:00 
The pinion setting tool measures the distance from the pinion bearing face (the face that butts up to the back of the pinion) to the centre of the diff cage.

The end of the pinion is not machined flat so it is best to do as I suggested previously.
Posted by: thutton on 2009-10-06 14:18:00 
Ok, I didn't know that the end of the pinion itself wasn't milled. I assume then that the pinion layshaft has a shoulder milled on it, that the bearing rides against, so that measuring against the bearing shoulder is essentially the same thing.

With all that said, from the best I can tell, the bearing retainer for the pinion bearing is inside the transmission case. So I can remove the layshaft without disturbing the ring gear, correct? In other words, I only have one thing to be concerned with upon re-assembly and that is getting the correct protrusion of the pinion bearing, in order to get the same mesh.

Thanks,
Tom
Posted by: WesBrown on 2009-10-06 23:32:00 
If you were replacing the pinion bearings, you would rebuild with the same shims as a starting point. Then you use engineers blue on the crownwheel to obtain the correct mesh pattern (with correct backlash, also). The mesh pattern is the crucial bit, if this isn't right then you're elusive pinion setting tool hasn't helped you much. Anyhow, the setting tool would only be of any real benefit to you if you were fitting a new or replacement crownwheel and pinion. As others have said, the setting is not worth meddling with. I've dismantled lots of Browns for spares and I've never come across a crownwheel and pinion that has excessive wear or damage. McCormick MTX are a different story........